kV 



U V 







/^ 




.-^' 



.PC,- 



<V 



° J 



, <&> c o " ° - '<*> 



t'. 



.*'% 






^<i. 














C .X' 


'"/* 







C, vP 



<^, 



^0^ 







^^^ 



5 K 



.-^^^' 



a'^ 



^1?^' "^.^ ^/# 



oK 



■ S 



v^ .■ 






'^o. 









^, 




<?>• 






V 



.V-^ 






^ 






'\^^ 



o 



-^ 







•j^ ^' 







- ,cC\^^ 



'^M't 



:^IW 



■/^v-^.> ■ 












St 



HOME 

DRAPING 

SIMPLIFIED 



THE YMASS METHODS OF 
CUTTING AND MAKING 
DRAPERIES 



THE YMASS PUBLICATIONS ARE: 

"HOME DRAPl^Q SIMPLIFIED'" 

AND 

'"HOME SLIP COVERS SIMPLIFIED" 



COPYRIGHTED 1920 



YMASS PUBLISHING COMPANY 

ATLANTIC CITY NEW JERSEY 



-a 



TT 390 

:s 



^ 



CONTENTS 



Home Draping Is Easy to Learn 3 

Color Harmonizing 4 

Simplified Methods Explained 5, 6 

Cutting 

Lace Curtains 

Portieres and Curtains 

Fringe Application 

Dutch Curtains 7, 8 

Valance Overdrape 9, 10 

Pinch Pleat Valance Hanging 11 to 13 

Scalloped Valance 14 to 16 

Lambrequin Drapery 17, 18 

Festoon Drapes 19 to 22 

The Modern Drape 23, 24 

Shirred Valance Drape 25, 26 

Combination Lambrequin Drape 27, 28 

Shirred Curtains 29, 30 

Draw Curtains 31, 32 

hbb 27 t920 ©CLA359849 



:5 FOREWORD 



c^ 



5 

3 



THE war compelled us to learn to do many things for our- 
selves that we had been in the habit of allowing others to 
do for us. Skilled labor was in demand in the manufacture of 
munitions. The military forces took many mechanics from their 
shops and work rooms. 

The habit of doing for ourselves what we are able to do 
was a good one and it is a habit that the thrifty will endeavor 
to preserve. To help the housewife, who loves to make her 
home look comfy and attractive, the YMASS Publications were 
written and published in as inexpensive a manner as possible. 

This particular book is one of a series devoted to the subject 
of simplified ways to drape the home, make furniture covers, 
cushions and things of a similar character. 

It was compiled by one who has spent years in seeking new 
and easier methods of making the things that he tells his reader 
how to make. 

By means of illustrations and explanations that any person 
who is handy with the needle can readily understand, he 
teaches one to accomplish, in a short time, what skilled artisans 
spend years to learn and then receive a high wage for doing. 



HOME DRAPING IS EASY TO LEARN 

To cut and hang a pretty window drapery is one of the most 
tedious and trying things milady has ever attempted, if 
she goes about the matter without knowing how to do it. If the 
directions and explanations in this book are carefully studied and 
followed, there will be no difficulty whatever. Moreover, it 
can be completed in far less time than one would expect. 

The Ymass System discloses methods that have been used 
successfully by the author in the upholstery departments of 
some of the largest stores of this country and of Europe. It 
effects considerable savings in time and material. 

To thoroughly master the ideas, one need only to read over 
the directions several times and then, by the aid of the illustra- 
tions, make any style desired. Nothing has been left undone to 
keep the explanations clear and free from superfluous matter 
that might tend to confuse the novice. 



HOME DRAPING 



COLOR HARMONIZING 

THE most popular color schemes are carried out with four 
dominating shades: blue, rose, gold and gray, or combina- 
tion with any one of these hues as a base. 

Of recent years, black has been much in favor when com- 
bined with any of these colors. Its use can scarcely be recom- 
mended now, however, except where the hangings are frequently 
changed. 

When the furniture is upholstered in flowered tapestry or 
striped or brocaded velour, and the floor covering is of similar 
design, the drape should be made from a plain fabric of the 
shade that predominates in the furnishings. 

Different floral designs or two different shades of a plain 
material should never be used in the same room. 

Where the furniture is covered with Cretonne, Chintz, 
Damask, Poplin or Repp, the hangings should be made of the 
same material or a combination of that material with a plain 
fabric. This treatment may be applied in several of the styles 
described in this book. 

Bedrooms are usually treated with Cretonne, Chintz, Poplin 
or Casement Cloth, either in plain shades or floral effects. 

The living room and the library require a fabric of more 
sturdy texture, such as Velour, Damask, Sun-fast Madras or 
Repp. As a rule, the same material that has been used to cover 
the furniture is used to drape. 

If it is not possible to secure the identical weave that has 
been used in the upholstering, then a plain fabric of its pre- 
dominating shade may be used. 

Where the upholstering is in leather, the wall paper and 
floor coverings become the guide in selecting the hangings. 

Blue, gold and brown lend the best effects in treating the 
dining-room. Delft Blue is popular. The fabrics used are Repp, 
Poplin, Madras, Velours and two-tone shades of Cretonne. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 



SIMPLIFIED METHODS EXPLAINED 

A NUMBER of practical helps are offered under this heading 
that tend to make draping considerably easier in many 
ways for those who have never attempted anything of the kind. 

If these pages are carefully studied, the most common mis- 
takes can easily be avoided. 

Before purchasing materials, all measurements should be 
accurately taken and jotted down with notations what each 
represents. Carefully read over the suggestions contained in 
the instructions for extra allowances that are necessary, and 
note them down also. It is well, even then, to add a little extra 
yardage as a precaution. 

Cutting 

Before cutting a piece of goods with birds or flowers as the 
motif, make sure that the figures in the design have a natural 
position. 

Care should be observed that the drops exactly match one 
another. 

If the motif is birds, they should appear flying toward the 
center and at even height. 

If a striped fabric is used, there should be an equal distri- 
bution of stripes to each drop. 

Full allowance should be made for hems and headings. 
This is most important. 

Lace Curtains 

A panel or pair of lace curtains, with a scallop or design at 
the bottom, should just touch the window sill. The overhanging 
should be even with the lace curtain or extend slightly below it. 

It is always well to turn in a certain amount of material at 
the top hem to allow for shrinkage. It is also advisable to make 
a heading at the top when no overhanging is used. 

A plain hem at the top may be used on lace curtains when 
there is an overhanging. 

Care must be observed that the lace curtains extend over 
the window shades. 

Lace curtains are frequently ruined through the rusting of 
metal rods. It is, therefore, important to cover rod with any 
white material obtainable. 

DO IT YOURSELF 



HOME DRAPING 



Portieres and Curtains 

To make portieres of two faces of velour, allow about 2 
inches greater than the length required. When stitching the 
sides together, fold back each breadth about II/2 inches, and 
pin or baste them together. Make sure that the nap of both 
pieces of velour runs the same way. Sew on machine from top 
to bottom, about I inch from each edge, to form a heading, with 
a large stitch and the bobbin regulated to feed loosely. It is 
most important to follow the direction of the nap ; otherwise the 
hanging will pucker. 

Finish the top complete, either with casing for pole or 
attach rings. Hang the portieres on the pole and mark bottom 
for proper depth. 

Hem the bottom of each breadth of velour separately. By 
leaving the bottom open, the portiere will hang gracefully in 
position. 

In making an ordinary single-breadth portiere, the simplest 
and most practical method is to cut the goods a few inches 
greater than the required depth, hem the sides and then finish 
the top complete. 

When the hanging has been applied on the pole, mark the 
proper depth of the portiere and hem the bottom or apply fringe. 

It is also possible to apply the same method in the making of 
window hangings, with or without lining. 

Fringe Application 

When fringe is applied on lined draperies, hand sewing is 
preferable. If a machine is used, place the material on top of 
the fringe and sew with large stitches. This method will be 
found a little difficult at first, but one can very quickly acquire 
the knack of it. 

To apply fringe to an unlined drapery, and prevent pucker- 
ing, it should be sewed on in a similar manner. 

Another good way to finish an edge of a drapery where 
fringe is to be applied, is to fold the edge outward about a 
quarter of an inch and baste. Then sew the fringe over it. 
The effect of this is a neat edge on both sides, besides causing 
the curtain to hang straight. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YM ASS METHODS 



DUTCH CURTAINS 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires about 21/^ yards of a 36-inch material, using half 
width for drops. 




Style 1 

DUTCH curtains are effectively used as overhangings for 
single, double or bay windows. They are also utilized as 
door portieres and in sun-parlor draping. 

This style can be made from materials such as Cretonne, 
Poplin, Repp, Velour and goods of similar texture. 

They then act as overhangings to lace curtains, panels or 
half sash curtains. 

It is permissible to apply the same treatment with soft 
materials, such as Voile, Scrim, Marquisette, Lace and Filet, to 
be used as an overhangnig. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



8 HOME DRAPING 

First, the measurement of the net length and width must be 
taken and marked down. 

For a window 28 to 40 inches wide, a 36-inch material, 
divided in half, will suffice for the two drops. 

For the valance between, allow half more for fullness, if 
material is heavy, and double the width if it is soft. 

For wider windows, 50-inch materials can be used and 
divided similarly, or 36-inch goods for each drop, with valance 
allowed in proportion. 

After they are cut to the right length, see that the drops 
are mates. 

Hem all the way round except at the top. 

Cut the valance to a depth in the proportion desired. 

Where fringe is used for the valance only, it should be 
sewed on first and the valance pinned to the drops so that they 
are even at the top. Sew on the wrong side. 

Where fringe or edging is used all the way round, it can 
be sewed on after the curtain is complete. 

Next fold over the full curtain at the top about 2 inches and 
sew it. 

Then make another seam in the center, which will give one 
inch for heading and one inch for the rod. 

Flat goose-neck rods are preferabale for windows. 



DOIT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 



VALANCE OVERDRAPE 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires about 3 yards of a 36-inch material, using half width 
for drops. 




Style 2 



THIS effect is adaptable for almost any room and can be 
carried out with most any fabric. 

It can be treated entirely in Cretonne or a plain material. 
However a number of attractive combinations are possible. A 
plain material with a border of Cretonne from 3 to 5 inches 
wide, sewed on both valance and drops about 3 inches from the 
edge (see Style 10) is one favorite treatment. 

Another involves the use of a black ribbon, from 2 to 4 
inches wide, applied on a plain gold, rose or blue. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



10 HOME DRAPING 

Fringe may be used for the valance alone or for both 
valance and drop. 

A very simple treatment of this style is introduced, whereby 
only one rod need be used for the entire hanging. 

When measurements for width and length have been taken, 
cut the valance to the depth decided upon, allowing an addi- 
tional two-thirds of the full width of the window for shirring. 

Sew fringe at the bottom of valance or hem, whichever way 
has been planned, and then hem the ends. 

Fold over the entire width of the valance at the top about 
two inches and sew it. Then make another hem in the center, 
thus giving an inch for heading and another for the rod. This 
completes the valance. 

Cut the drops the length desired. Sew on fringe or hem all 
but the tops. 

Attach drops to the wrong side of the valance at the 
extreme end. Sew them toward the center on the second seam of 
the valance intended for the rod. 

When the rod has been inserted, it carries the entire curtain. 

Then the drops and valance, together, are shirred and regu- 
lated in the proportion desired. 

This treatment is recommended for single, double and 
triple windows. 

To thus drape a double window, get the center of the 
valance by folding in half, sewing on the third drop in the 
manner above described. 

A triple window can be treated similarly. 

Drops in the center of double and triple windows are often 
eliminated because they tend to retard light and air. In this 
case use a drop at each end with a valance across. 

Use a double goose-neck rod for the overdrape and lace 
curtain. For purposes of economy, however, single rods can be 
used for the lace curtains and a goose-neck rod for the over- 
drape. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YM ASS METHODS 



11 



PINCH PLEATED VALANCE HANGING 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires about 3 yards of a 36-inch material, using half width 
for drops. 




Style 3 

THIS number may be used in most any room and from any 
kind of curtain material. 

There are two ways to make it; with a pinch pleat or with 
a box pleat. 

A wooden frame is required, about 1 inch thick, 2 or 3 
inches wide, and made to fit the window (see Diagram 7B). 

It extends out from the window frame from 2 to 3 inches, 
allowing room underneath for window shades and lace curtains. 

Insert screw-eyes into the back of the frame, about three- 
quarters of an inch from the top, and about 2 or 3 inches from 
each end. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



12 HOME DRAPING 



Then place the frame in position against the window frame, 
and mark points opposite the screw-eyes for hooks. Screw the 
hooks into the window frame so that they will catch the screw- 
eyes and hold the curtain frame firmly in place. 

Then take the curtain frame off the hooks and place it on a 
table, marking off spaces on the upper edge for pleats, which 
should be from 6 to 8 inches apart. 

The depth of the valance for an average window, 6 to 7 
feet high, should be from 14 to 16 inches. 

Cut the goods twice the width of the window to obtain 
double fullness. 

Any seams that occur in the valance should be worked into 
the pleats. 

Either apply fringe at the bottom of the valance or hem, 
whichever way planned, and then hem the ends. 

Make a 2-inch hem at the top. Then get the center of the 
frame and the center of the valance and start pleating, tacking 
from center to left and from center to right, in order that pleats 
may be evenly balanced. 

Next fold the goods into a box pleat about 2 inches wide. 
Tack the pleats lightly to the upper edge of the frame, using 
small tacks to hold the valance in place until you get them 
properly proportioned. 

Then remove the tacks, and as you take them out, tack the 
corner of each pleat on the inside fold, thus concealing the tacks. 

The box pleats should be slightly loose, but between pleats 
the goods must be stretched taut against the frame to conceal 
the wood. 

Another precaution to keep the top of the frame hidden 
from view is to have the valance extend about a quarter of an 
inch above it. 

To pinch pleat the valance, use a heavy double thread of a 
shade that matches that of the material. 

Fold pleats into 3 smaller pleats along the 2-inch hem, as 
shown in illustration. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 13 

Hold these pleats together and pass the needle through 
them once each way. Then knot. This method of stitching will 
conceal the thread. 

The drops can be applied on the inside of the frame with a 
rod. 

This style can be effectively carried out by the use of either 
a loop-back hanging or straight drop effect, as illustrated. 

For the loop-back style, make a band of the same material 
about 2 inches wide. Sew two small rings at each end. Place 
a small cup hook on the window frame at the proper height for 
the loops. 

The Pinch Pleat Valance may be used over door portieres 
and over draw curtains. 

An excellent arrangement for drawing back the drops is 
described in Style 12. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



14 



HOME DRAPING 



SCALLOPED VALANCE 
(Pinch Pleated) 

QUANTITY — A double window, average size 70 in. by 
72 in., will require about 6 yards; without the centre drop, 
4 yards. Half width is used for end drops and full width for 
the centre drop. 




Style 4 

CRETONNE, Poplin or Velour can be used for the Scalloped 
Valance in entire one material effects. Velour combined 
with figured tapestry or a lightweight plain material combined 
with Cretonne are treatments sometimes favored. 

An example of the latter effect is a plain fabric for drops 
with the scallops made from a combination of the same material 
and one that is figured. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 15 

The motif in this case is a set figure such as a bird, a basket 
or something similar in a design that will permit arranging in 
the centre of the scallop. 

The ends of the valance that cover the hangings are of the 
figured goods and the scallops next to them are plain, with an 
equal division of plain and figured scallops. 

The loose pleats that conceal the seams are made from plain 
material to correspond with the drops. 

When a figured effect is desired for the hangings, the 
valance is worked out in plain material at the ends and the 
scallops contrasting, as described above. 

Fringe can be used either for the valance alone or for both 
valance and drops. 

Fringe and tassels should match the shades of both the 
fabrics used. 

This number can be carried out for single or double 
windows. 

Velour, Tapestry or heavy Cretonne are recommended for 
living room, drawing room, reception hall and dining room; 
lighter weight materials for bed room or sun parlor. 

Make a frame similar to that which is described in Styles 
3, 6 and 7, the width of the window, single, double or triple, as 
the case may be. 

When the hangings are to reach to the window sill, the 
valance should be 14 to 16 inches deep, or 2 inches deeper when 
they extend to the floor. 

The half scallops at the extreme ends require a depth of 
from 4 to 6 inches greater. 

The divisions for scallops should be from 8 to 12 inches 
wide. 

Cut the valance to a depth equal to its deepest part and 
long enough to stretch across the window and around the cor- 
ners of the frame. 

Divide the goods into as many scallops as desired and cut 
them out, each to be about 2 inches deep, with the half scallops 
at the ends about 4 to 6 inches deeper. 

DO IT YOURSELF 



16 HOMEDRAPING 

If valance is made from a combination of fabrics, cut out 
a pattern, the shape of the one above described. Then cut out 
the tvi^o different kinds of material from this pattern, assorting 
them evenly. Next join the contrasting panels on the wrong 
side. 

Press out flat, sew on fringe and then hem the ends. 

The loose pleats should be cut to a depth 2 inches less than 
the deepest part of the scallop. To make it, refer to Style 6, 
Diagrams 1 and 2. 

When the valance is complete, stretch it over the frame, not 
too tightly, then tack it to the top edge. Next tack on the loose 
pleats between scallops on the same edge of the frame over the 
valance. If the weight of the tassel does not hold the pleat flat 
against the valance, a concealed pin or a few stitches from the 
back of the valance to the back of the pleat will keep it in place. 

Another method is to tack the valance on the front of the 
frame, at the top, and the loose pleats on top of that, and then 
use edging or fringe to conceal tacks. 

Directions for making the hangings and for hanging the 
entire drapery and lace curtains are the same as those described 
in Style 3. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS IMETHODS 



17 



LAMBREQUIN DRAPERY 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires about 3 yards of a 36-inch material, using half width 
for drops. 






Mmmm 






■:■^l^!^(^KXlu%^5^ 

' ■ N ibx!' Iv! )-'-'^ ^ 
' ir'*"'" 






Style 5 

A FABRIC, such as Repp, Damask, heavy Cretonne, plain 
colored Tapestry or Velour, is usually used in making 
this particular hanging. 

The last-mentioned material is very effective, especially 
M^hen applied with gold braid or fringe trimming at the bottom 
edge of the Lambrequin. 

The Lambrequin Drape is favored for library, living-room, 
dining-room, reception hall and drawing-room. 

There are other and more complicated ways to work it out, 
but the one selected for this book was chosen because it is the 
simplest. 

For a 6-foot window, the depth of the Lambrequin's center 
should be 12 inches and the ends about 16 inches. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



HOME DRAPING 



For French Windows or Door Portieres, the depth should 
be 14 inches at the center and 20 inches at the ends. 

Cut material the width of the window, allowing sufficient 
to reach around the ends of the frame, and as deep as the ends 
will measure, with an allowance of one inch extra for work. 

Fold the piece of goods, lengthwise in half, with wrong 
side out. Mark off with chalk and cut out this particular design. 

The manner in which this is done is fully described and 
illustrated by diagram in Style 8. 

Overstitch the edge from end to end, and repeat in the 
opposite direction, so that stitches cross one another. This pre- 
vents fraying. Care must be observed, however, that the stitch- 
ing is not too tight or the design will be changed in shape. 

Hem the ends and apply fringe at the bottom. Hand sewing 
is best for this operation. 

If it is desired to machine stitch the fringe on, it should be 
placed underneath the goods. The machine must be regulated 
to make the largest stitch and run slowly, so that it will prop- 
erly mitre the corners of the design. If possible, regulate the 
bobbin so that it will'feed the thread loosely. 

When lining is used, place Lambrequin on lining, face to 
face and cut a trifle larger. Sew on the wrong side, bottom first 
and then the ends. Loosely stitch by hand, using care in shaping 
out the corners. 

Then turn the Lambrequin right side outward, and stitch 
both lining and material on the right side across the top. 

To flatten out the design after sewing has been completed, 
press it on the wrong side so that it will hang rigid. Then apply 
fringe as above indicated. 

If gold braid is used, after pressing, baste on the braid, 
following around the shape of the design. Mitre the corners. 
Sew by machine with loose thread and large stitches. Braid 
should project about a quarter of an inch below the bottom edge 
of the Lambrequin. 

Place the braid downward and the material on top of it. 
Then sew the bottom stitch in this manner. The second seam 
should be sewn with the braid on top. 

When braid is thus used, a second pressing is necessary to 
flatten it out also. 

By making a hem at the top, a goose-neck flat rod can be 
used to hang this drapery; but to get the better effect, the frame 
arrangement is recommended. 

Tack Lambrequin on the upper edge of the frame with 
small tacks, stretching the goods tightly from center to right 
and from center to left. 

Directions for making the hangings, the wooden frame and 
for hanging the drapery are the same as those given for Style 3. 

DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 



19 



FESTOON DRAPES 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires for Style 6 about SV2 yards of a 36-inch, material, 
using half width for drops, and 4 yards for Style 7. 







N°7 




Styles 6 and 7 



WHEN properly executed, this is considered a smart over- 
drape for living-room, drawing-room, library and dining 
room. 

Style 6 may be treated with two different fabrics, plain and 
flowered, as illustrated, or all plain, and again, all flowered. 

Style 7 must be treated entirely with the one effect, either 
plain or figured. 

A fabric like Repp, Velour or heavy Cretonne is recom- 
mended. 

The illustrations depict single windows. Double or triple 
windows can be similarly treated merely by the addition of more 
festoons. 

These drapes may be used with or without hangings. 

When hangings are not desired, the tail drops are made 
about two-thirds the depth of the window. When hangings are 
used, the tail drops are made about one-half the depth of the 
window or less. 

One-piece lace panels offer an attractive background for 
the Festoon Drape when it is carried out without drops. 

When drops are used, either a pair of lace curtains or one- 
piece panel may be used. This is a matter of personal taste, but 
in any case, the treatment in regard to lace curtains should 
conform to that of the other rooms. 

To make the Festoon Drape, refer to diagram on Page 21. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



20 HOMEDRAPING 

For Style 6 a wooden frame is required, as shown in Dia- 
gram 7B. It should be about 1 inch thick, 2 to 3 inches wide 
and as long as the width of the window frame. It is projected 
out from the window frame 2 or 3 inches, by means of blocks, 
thus affording clearance for lace curtains and window shades. 

Screw-eyes must be inserted in the back of the frame, about 
three-quarters of an inch from the top, and about 2 to 3 inches 
from each end. 

When this has been done, place the frame in position above 
the window and mark points on the window frame for hooks. 

The hooks should be screwed into the window frame in such 
a way as to catch the screw-eyes of the curtain frame and hold 
it firmly. 

For a window 40 to 42 inches wide, the end tails should 
each be about 12 inches wide and as long as desired, and the 
festoon from 20 to 24 inches wide, according to the width of 
the window. 

In cutting material for the festoon, about 2 inches should be 
allowed for the work. Its depth, when completed, should be 
from 15 to 17 inches. About 5 inches additional are required 
for the three pleats. (See Diagram 6B.) 

After the goods for the festoons have been cut the proper 
length and depth, cut the corners round, about 2 inches from 
the edge, as shown in the diagram. 

Sew on fringe and hem the top. Then the three pleats are 
pinned at one end, and the operation is repeated at the opposite 
end. See that each pleat takes in the same amount of fullness 
as the one directly opposite. Fold over the festoon to make sure 
that the ends are equal in depth. The pleats are then stitched 
and pins removed. 

Next get the measurement of the end of the festoon to use 
as a starting point, from which to mark off the first curve of the 
tail. Mark out the three curves on the goods as shown in Dia- 
gram 6A. 

It is advisable to place the end tails face to face and cut 
them at the same time. This is a sure way to get them sym- 
metrical. 

Hem the two ends and then the tops and sew fringe around 
the scallops. 

For the loose pleats, cut goods 6 inches wide and as long as 
the ends of the festoon. Double it over, right side in, and sew 

DO IT YOURSELF 



YM ASS METHODS 



21 



together in the form of a bag. Turn this, right side out, close 
up the open end and then press flat. (See Diagram No. 1.) 

To make the little pinch pleats, follow the method described 
in Style 3. (See Diagram No. 2.) 




Then sew tassel on the center, as in illustration. 

Next tack the tail drops to the upper edge of the frame and 
around the ends. Then tack the festoon to the frame in the 
same manner, making two little pleats at the center of the top, 
which allows for the curve of the festoon. (See illustration.) 

The loose pleats are applied so that they cover the joints 
where end tail and festoon meet. A few stitches in the back are 
required to hold them in place. 

If desired, a tassel can then be attached to each tail drop. 
The drapery is then ready to hang. 

The wooden frame is also required for Style 7. It should 
be covered in the same material that is to be used for the 
drapery, with a padding of sheet cotton under the cover. 

Tack the material tightly around the frame. Then tack 
fringe on the lower inside edge of the frame, as in illustration. 

For a window measuring 40 to 42 inches in width, the end 
tails should be about 10 inches wide finished, and as long as 
desired. The double festoon fills in the gap between. 

In cutting the width for the double festoon, about 3 inches 
is allowed for the work. The depth is from 15 to 17 inches at 
the center of the curve, with an additional allowance of about 
5 inches for pleats. 

After material for the double festoon is cut the required 
length and depth, with allowances mentioned, cut round corners 
at the extreme ends, starting about 2 inches from the edge. 

Make a deeper cut at the center, as in Diagram 7C. 

Then hem ends and top and apply fringe. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



22 HOMEDRAPING 



About three or four pleats are pinned at the center of the 
double festoon and the same repeated at the ends. The pleating 
is so regulated that the ends are about 2 inches lower than the 
center, as illustrated. 

The two extreme ends are folded together and compared, 
so that they will be even in depth. 

The pleats are then stitched and the pins removed. 

It is advisable to place both lengths of goods for the tail 
drops face to face, and to cut them out at the same time, so that 
they will be perfectly symmetrical. 

Double fullness is required for pleating the tails. 

Get the measurement of the ends of the festoon to use as a 
starting point in cutting them out. 

From this starting point, measure in about 4 inches from 
the edge and about 8 inches along the bottom edge of the tail. 
Draw a line between these two points, slightly rounding the ends 
as shown in Diagram 7A. After cutting out the design, hem 
ends and top and apply fringe to the biased edge. 

The tail is then placed flat upon the table and folded into 
two or three pleats to come within the space required. Figure 
on an additional 2 or 3 inches to go round the block. The same 
treatment is applied to the opposite tail drop. 

The pleats should be temporarily held in place with pins 
and pressed. Then stitch them together across the top. 

The material for tail drops should be double, if both sides of 
it are not alike. Otherwise the folds will disclose the wrong 
side of the goods. 

To make the loose pleat, first get the depth of the center of 
the finished festoon. A piece of material is required, about 6 
inches wide at the bottom and 5 inches wide at the top. This 
piece of goods is doubled over and sewed in the shape of a bag, 
with the right side in. 

It is then turned right side out, sewed up at the top and 
pressed out flat. (See Diagram 7D.) 

The tassel is then attached as in illustration. 

Next place the frame on a table and mark the center of the 
back. The loose pleat is the first thing applied. Then the tail 
drops are tacked on, facing each other, with ends stretching 
around the inside of the blocks that project the frame. 

The festoon is then loosely tacked on, from center to right 
and from center to left, with ends extended at least 2 inches 
behind each tail. 

A few stitches are applied to hold both festoon and tail 
drops in place, and also to hold festoon and loose pleat together. 

The entire operation of mounting the drapery is carried out 
on back of the frame. It is well to measure each side carefully 
before the drapery is permanently tacked to the frame. 

If desired, a tassel may be attached to the end of each tail 
drop. 

DO IT YOURSELF 



YM ASS METHODS 



23 



THE MODERN DRAPE 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires about 3 yards of a 36-inch material, using half width 
for drops. 



:^ 



=^ 







Style 8 

THE Modern Drape was chosen as one of the styles to be 
described because of its simplicity. It is easy to make and 
easy to hang. 

It can be made from almost any curtain material and is 
appropriate for almost any room. 

Get the length of the window or door. 

The depth of the valance for an ordinary 6 to 7 foot window 
should be about 12 to 13 inches at the center scallop and about 
16 inches at the ends. 

Cut material the width of the window, allowing sufficient 
goods to reach around the goose-neck rod, which is preferable 
for a drape of this character, and as deep as the ends, with an 
allowance of an extra inch each way for the work. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



24 



HOME DRAPING 



Fold the goods lengthwise in half, with the wrong side out, 
and secure with a pin. Then mark off with chalk, either the 
design illustrated or one of the two in the diagram. 

Cut both thicknesses of fabric at the same time, starting 
from the fold in the center. 




This method of cutting will insure perfect symmetry when 
the valance is opened out. 

Sew braid or fringe at the bottom, carefully shaping along 
the lines of the design. 

Next hem the ends. 

Then fold over at the top and make a hem across for the 
rod casing. 

Cut drops the length desired. Sew fringe on them and hem 
all but the tops. 

Attach drops to the wrong side of the valance at the extreme 
ends. Sew them toward the center on the seam that is intended 
for the rod, making about two pleats, which should face toward 
the center from either side. 

For this purpose use a double goose-neck rod, the inner rod 
for the lace curtains and the outer one for the entire drapery just 
described. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 



25 



SHIRRED VALANCE DRAPE 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires about 3 yards of a 36-inch material, using half width 
for drops. 







Style 9 

A SOFT figured or plain material is required for this style. 
Linen, Crash, Poplin, Chintz, Cretonne, Silkaline and 
others of similar texture may be used. 

This number is used to drape the sun-parlor, Dutch hall, 
den and bedroom. 

The shirred scallops can be made to extend the entire width 
of the window or between two shaped ends, as in illustration. 

Measure the window for width and divide into equal divi- 
sions of about 8 to 10 inches each. 

Two of the sections thus divided are reserved for the shaped 
ends. 

Cut goods for the shirred valance, allowing 2 inches extra 
to each division for fullness. The approximate depth is from 12 
to 16 inches. Allow double fullness for shirring. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



26 HOME DRAPING 

After the goods have been thus sectioned off all the way 
across, cut scallops about 2 inches deep and sew on fringe. 

The marks should be drawn from the points between scal- 
lops to the top. Run a heavy thread across each of these lines 
and at the sides, from the points of the scallops, catching on the 
fringe. 

Then gather the pleats on the threads, making sure that 
they all measure alike, and fasten thread. This should be 
strengthened by stitching across once or twice on a sewing 
machine. 

The starting point, from which to cut out the end pieces, is 
measured down the same depth as the point of the scallop. 
Shape it as in illustration. 

Sew on fringe and hem the sides. Then join ends to the 
shirred valance and attach tassels. 

Fold over the entire width of the valance at the top and 
make a two-inch hem. Make another hem in the center of this, 
thus giving an inch for the heading and another for the rod 
casing. 

After the hanging has been placed on the rod, gather the 
extra fullness in such a manner that each division gets an equal 
proportion. 

Either the loop-back hanging or straight drop effect may 
be used. Style 3 includes a description of the loop-back effect. 

Use triple rod for lace curtains, or a double rod for hangings 
and valance only. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 



27 



COMBINATION LAMBREQUIN DRAPERY 

QUANTITY — The average window, 36 in. by 72 in., 
requires about 3 yards of a 36-inch material, using half width 
for drops. 



tuuUUUU! 







Style 10 

A PLAIN fabric may be used for this number, such as Poplin, 
Repp, Damask, Casement Cloth and similar materials. 
However, a heavy Cretonne may be used if a boder is not desired. 

A ribbon, 2 to 4 inches wide, of a shade that contrasts with 
that of the goods, or strips of Cretonne, 3 to 5 inches wide, are 
applied for border effect. 

This drapery is used for living-room, dining-room, dressing- 
room, library or reception hall. 

For a 6-foot window, the depth of the Lambrequin should 
be about 14 inches at the center and 18 inches at the ends. For 
a French window or door portiere, the depth should be 16 inches 
at the center and 21 inches at the ends. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



28 HOME DRAPING 

Cut the material the width of the window, allowing suf- 
ficient to reach around the rod or frame and as deep as the ends 
will measure, with an extra inch for the work. 

Place the goods on a table, with the wrong side toward you. 
Mark off a line the entire length of the goods, about 5 inches 
from the bottom edge. 

Then space off the two ends, which should be the same 
width as the drops, with allowance for extending around the 
rod or frame. 

Cut out the rectangular piece between marks. 

Draw a chalk line, 2 to 3 inches above the bottom line of 
the shaped Lambrequin. Apply the ribbon or Cretonne border 
on this line by basting or with pins, carefully mitreing the 
corners. 

Sew by machine, with large stitches, regulating the bobbin 
so that it will feed thread loosely, if possible. 

Apply fringe at the bottom and hem ends. Then press the 
Lambrequin. 

If a wooden frame is used (See Diagram 7B), tack the 
Lambrequin to the upper edge of the frame, stretching the goods 
tightly across and around the blocks. 

If a rod is used, turn goods over at the top and make a hem 
to form rod casing. 

Cut out the drops and draw a chalk line, about 2 or 3 inches 
from the side and bottom edges, as in illustration. Apply Cre- 
tonne or ribbon border in the same manner as explained for 
Lambrequin. 

Hem around the sides and bottom. 

Place the two hangings face to face, to ascertain if they are 
of equal length. Then make hem at the top, if rod is to be used. 

It is well to press out the drapery to flatten down the 
border before hanging. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



YM ASS METHODS 



29 



SHIRRED CURTAINS 




Style 11 

SHIRRED Curtains are regaining their former popularity. 
Their use is not confined to any room in particular. 

If made from a light material, they take the place of a 
shade or lace curtain. 

When made from a colored fabric, they are used over lace 
curtains. 

As in other styles described in this book, the simplest 
method of making this drapery has been chosen from the several 
different ways possible. 

Cut the goods the width of the window, with an additional 
2 inches for each section of shirring, and 4 inches additional for 
hemming the sides. 

Allow about double material for length. 

Divide sections for shirring in spaces from 8 to 12 inches 
wide. To mark the goods, press into distinct creases, or use 
chalk and pencil on the wrong side. 



DO IT YOURSELF 



80 



HOME DRAPING 



After the goods have been thus sectioned off all the way 
across, scallop the bottom about 2 inches deep and apply fringe. 

Then make a 1 1/2-inch hem on each side. 

Across the bottom, about 6 inches from the deepest part of 
the scalloping, sew a tape on the back of the curtain for rod, 
which is to act as a weight. It is advisable to cover the rod with 
a heavy material before it is inserted into the drapery to prevent 
rusting. 

Run heavy threads from rod hem to the top along the per- 
pendicular lines that serve to section off the curtain, and also 
along the side hems. They must catch on the selvedge of the 
binding. 

Then gather the pleats on these threads, taking the precau- 
tion that they all measure alike, and fasten thread. To 
strengthen, run through on sewing machine once or twice, using 
heavy thread. 

Next sew on tassels between scallops. 

Make a hem at the top for the rod. 

After the hanging has been placed on the rod, gather extra 
fullness in such manner that each division gets an equal pro- 
portion. 




DO IT YOURSELF 



YMASS METHODS 



31 



DRAW CURTAINS 




Style 12 

DRAW Curtains may be made from Velour, Repp, Cretonne 
or other light-weight materials for windows or portieres. 

If the pinch or box-pleat effect is carried out, rings are 
attached on the wrong side of the pleating. 

If a valance is used over the draw curtains, ordinary pleats 
are made and the rings sewed upon them at the very top of the 
hanging. The latter way permits of easier operation. The 
rings should be sufficiently large to pass readily over the rod or 
pole. 

For portieres or heavy curtains, it is necessary to use a 
curtain pole and Traverse rings. 

For windows, use an ordinary wire, stretched from two 
screw-eyes at each end, where the valance affords concealment, 
or use a solid rod. 

Screw a double pulley below one end of the pole, and a 
single pulley at the opposite end. The double pulley should be 



DO IT YOURSELF 



on the side from which you want the drawing string to operate. 
Then fasten another single pulley at the window sill. (See 
diagram.) 

For a French window or portiere, the last pulley should be 
screwed to the floor, close to the weather-board and behind the 
curtain. 

Special pulleys, Traverse rings and cord to match most any 
shade are obtainable for this purpose. It is necessary that the 
cord be of a size that works readily through the pulleys; other- 
wise all manner of difficulty will be experienced in operating 
the curtains. 

Hang the finished curtain, with rings attached, on pole or 
rod. 

To have the draw curtains close tightly at the center, it is 
necessary to sew the first rings from the center, where drops 
meet, about an inch back from the edge. This results in the 
curtains overlapping when drawn shut. 

The side ends of the curtain that remain stationary should 
be fastened. 

Measure off the cord C^ " ^ '^ '^^^ 
to twice the length of the 
curtain and twice the 
width of the window, with 
about 6 inches allowance. 

Pass the cord through sill or floor pulley. (See 
Diagram 12 A.) Carry both ends through the double 
pulley. Take one end of cord and measure off cord from 
the end of the rod to the other end and half way back. 
After passing the cord from double pulley to ring 12C, 
tie it to that ring and continue passing through the single 
pulley back to ring 12B, fastening the end to that ring. 
Now take the other end from double pulley, drawing the cord 
tightly, and knot it to ring 12B. Cut off surplus cord. When 
this is properly done, the curtain will work back and forth very 
smoothly. 

Pulling one way will then open both curtains, and pulling 
in the opposite direction will close them. 

When drawing curtains it is advisable to draw with one 
hand on each cord. This will permit of easier operation. 

After the draw strings have been used for awhile, it will be 
found necessary to re-tighten, which is done by detaching the 
cord at 12B and taking in the surplus. 




3477-267 
Lot 



.^ 











^\ 



o 



0' 



^ 



s 



^-^9"^' 






0^ c ° " " 



" o 












''^> 



>' 



?^' "^^ a"^ *■ 






>^ 






A 



.Vx./7Z^.-, 



,^ 



vcO.%^' 






>' o.^' 






S •J''. 



«? 



X^^ 



K* .^-'^ V 



6i -^ • -r 















-^^^ -^^ °o'^o|\y* ^^y '^^ 



^a 



:;,.;:-, "V 



T'^ 



-';»"- '^^ o"* 






o 






\ 



.<^ 



<. 



•<p . 



-p 



o > 







,0 



.0 -^ 



<^. 






> 



V 



^-- a"^" '^^ 

v^*^ "^ 



-^ \V ^* r^, §^, A "o 



?^"-^^. V^^¥^ 





















^. 




O > 



^( 











.^< 






V 



.•^' 



> 



<^>5;^ 



0* 



,Ai 






s 






tt' 



r^ 



oHq. 



vO 



v^ .^ 






'^^ 







^' ^:^:% ^<;> ,^" .^^l^^ %. ^ 



^ ^..^ ::S»v "%cf^ :^m»^h ^.^ ^l*fe* ^'^^'' 






^'-^'^->o /.^^;/\ ^^^^^^ y *^ri'% 



^"^^4^ 



^-^^«^_- ^^ ^»^° ^^-n^. ^^^^M3^- .^ 



.0 














> 












o 







:jfm 



l'M|ijp.74) :^S|:^:: %v^ 



.^ 



r\ 






t-r^^ 



v_y ,1 'V < V ' , . - .O ^. 



^ 



